Cricket Bat Myths That Need Retiring

The cricket bat nuffie world loves a bit of tradition - and that’s part of what makes it such a fun circle to mix in. However, at the same time, it can be frustrating thanks to some of the nonsensical (and sometimes dangerous) advice that smaller or wannabe cricket influencers spout on social media.

When it comes to bat care, tradition can easily morph into myth. Some of the advice passed around changing rooms and comment sections simply doesn’t hold up once you’ve actually spent time repairing and crafting bats from scratch.

Here are a few of the most common myths I come across in the workshop - and the truth behind them.

Myth 1: You need to knock in a bat for 10 hours

You don’t. That idea probably came from a time when bats were purchased by the club - maybe two or three for the whole team - and expected to last years before being replaced. Back then, brands and retailers didn’t want you coming back to them every five minutes with a broken bat.

In 2025, nobody expects a bat to last ten years with regular use. They expect it to perform from the offset. For this to be the case, the bat can’t be pressed too firmly or deeply - but that still doesn’t mean you need to knock it in for ten hours.

The physical impression that a mallet or knocking-in machine can make into the face of the bat only goes so deep. Ten hours of knocking would be completely futile. The only way you’re going to squash the fibres of the willow down any further would be with water and a press.

A few careful sessions with a mallet or ball are worthwhile, but the goal is to finish what the press has started, not redo it. If you’re hammering away for hours, you’re wasting time - and possibly damaging the bat.

If in doubt, I can test your bat in seconds and tell you if it’s ready for play.

Myth 2: Oil solves everything

Oil helps, but it’s not magic. Raw linseed oil helps maintain the current moisture content within the bat - like butter in a sandwich - but it can’t fix dryness or damage. Too much oil actually softens the wood and dulls performance, while also giving it a dark, heavy look and making it harder to successfully seal cracks or penetrate surface splits with glue.

One light coat on the exposed wood every so often is plenty. Think of oil as maintenance, not a cure.

Myth 3: A toe guard makes a bat toe-damage-proof

A toe guard helps protect from scuffing and swelling if you’re playing on damp surfaces, but it won’t stop actual impact damage to the toe itself.

Some of the nastiest feathering from ground strikes and yorkers happens under toe guards, left unrepaired for too long simply because nobody could see it. Having a naked toe isn’t just traditional - it allows your bat to build a natural dirt seal if used on dry pitches, and you can spot any damage straight away and tackle it before it worsens.

Myth 4: You can fix any crack with a bit of glue

Superglue, epoxy, duct tape - I’ve seen it all. A small surface crack or edge compression can sometimes be stabilised and protected that way for a while, but anything deeper needs proper repair.

If a crack runs across the grain or down towards the handle, it needs a professional eye and a proper fix. Quick DIY jobs often make things worse - and cost more to undo later.

Myth 5: The more grains, the better the bat

Another classic. Grain count doesn’t tell the full story. Wide-grained willow can hit just as well and often lasts longer. What matters more is how well the bat has been pressed and how the profile suits your style of play.

There’s some truth in the idea that higher-grade willow (with more, cleaner grains) often produces livelier bats - but a good batmaker can make the same performing bat from lower grades that some brands wouldn’t even look at.

When I select willow, I’m looking at density, moisture, structure, and the natural imperfections that will affect how it presses - not just how many lines it has on the face.

Myth 6: A bat should be stored in the garage or shed

Please don’t. Someone on social media actually recommended this last winter - and it made me wince.

A bat will absorb the atmosphere around it. If it’s hot, the moisture content will drop. In the cold, it’ll rise. Leaving a bat in a cold garage or damp shed is a recipe for disaster. The bat will gain weight, the moisture will fluctuate, and the pressing can be affected.

We see it first-hand: bats left in cold conditions feel completely different when we start shaving them down. If we’ve got the weight written on the blade, it’s always heavier on the scales after a few cold days.

A bat is happiest in the same conditions you are - dry, moderate, and not too hot or cold. Keep it in your house, away from direct heat sources.